El Fin de Ano...Family, Friends, Food, Fiestas and Fun.

 

 

Christmas 2013, one of our lucky ones.  First came Eric and Elena; Eric who loves to use his Xmas work shut down time as a recreational retreat here in sunny and warm Zihuatanejo and his Russian born girlfriend who has never travelled to Mexico before.

Elena is a tiny package of full on energy and vitality who is capable of drinking and eating with the rest of the pack.  She's enjoyed every moment so far during her stay here.  They arrived just in time to see the Posada in Colonia La Madera, an annual evening of celebrations as the local children perform the "pastorela" and the colonia celebrates on Calle Adelita. 

 

Then came Amy and Patrick, our hardworking farmers from Sideroad Natural Farm, in frozen winter Ontario.   Due to the massive ice storm that struck Toronto on the day before their flight, and the unfortunate choice of Sunwing Airlines (never to be repeated in the future), their already short Xmas vacation was further reduced by a 6 hour delayed arrival. 

Waiting for Amy and Patrick's arrival with us, are our longtime family friends Paul McNamara and his daughters who spent last Xmas here in Zihuatanejo.  This year Kate's new friend Leif, a "average Canadian guy", with no experience in Mexico is here to unwind after a stint in Afghanistan with the Canadian Forces and before he returns to his Army job in Victoria.   We think Zihua offers just the right mix of relaxation and beauty to move on from life in one of the world's disaster zones.  (Plus there are third world similarities he can relate to).

 

 

 

One thing I've learned about Xmas in Zihuatanejo is that there is absolutely no point in spending all day in the kitchen, so when our condo complex decided to have Juanito Zihua and I planned a potluck Xmas dinner for 26...I knew that Monica would be my "go to gal" for the best Mole in town...and as always Monica of Patio Mexica Cooking School did not disappoint.   The best mole and the best dish at the potluck if I do say so.... Even more yummy than Juanito who was a star again. 

 

 
 
 

 One of my best moments was watching Eric and Elena dancing under the stars at Casa Ceiba....go Eric, you might just get the salsa moves yet!

 

 

 Xmas Day was a fun time with Secret Santas, Mimosa's and a lively group.  Since then each day has involved the beach, sand, sun, water and watching athletic people pack away enormous quantities of food and drink.  In the best spirit of Mexicans at the beachside at Xmas...it has been huge fun. 

 

 

 Playa Larga gave Patrick an exciting fishing experience and Gene came to the rescue to remove the young manta ray hooked on the wing. 

 A long and demanding walk to Playa Manzanillo rewarded us with a great snorkel and even better, a pick up by Gene with his legendary "car beers" for those of us who were smart enough to get in the car rather than walk the whole distance back. 



But sadly, and with mixed emotions, today we said goodbye to Amy and Patrick, but first we all enjoyed an amazing seaside dinner at Il Bacco.  I love my family, this would've only been more complete if Kristen could've joined us...we missed you and hope you had a great time with your friends.  

And tomorrow is the start of a New Year for me...yes one day early, but it my birthday.  I know that I have enjoyed a wonderful 62 years and hope that this next year continues to reward my family with health and happiness.  Each of our children is working hard to achieve their dreams and Gene and I are so proud of who they are and who they are becoming.  

 

 

We've spent the last two months physically, socially and emotionally adjusting to our life in the tropics. But just in the last two days things have started to change.   The air has a slight chill, the water is noticeably cooler and we've begun to use our covers at night...welcome to winter in Zihuatanejo.   Eric and Elena are off to learn how to surf for a couple of days this week, and then we'll soon say adios to them and send them off with a new and renewed sense of the spirit of Mexico.  Xmas here in Zihua is after all a Xmas season of Mexicans enjoying one of their most favorite places and we are caught up in the happy spirit of these days. 

 

 

And my blog wouldn't be a completely honest reflection of this season if I didn't acknowledge the loss of one of our fellow Canadian residents of Zihuatanejo.   Hank Bloy, a neighbour and friend passed away on Xmas Eve after experiencing declining health.  Hank was "a world traveller", and a perfect gentleman of profound faith who lived in Mexico 7 months each year with his wife and best friend Dominique.  He loved Zihuatanejo and was loved by all.   He will be missed.  

 



Broadening horizons...travelling to places so old but so new. How to get my Xmas on Mexican style.

Last weekend, Gene and I with our neighbour and friend Evelyn travelled inland.  Only 4 hours drive, but worlds away in terms of climate, culture and experiences is one of our favorite travel destinations; Patzcuaro.   This time, thanks to the kindness of Kathy, Evelyn's friend, we left Cori behind and headed back to our favorite little hotel La Casa Encantada .   This little hotel in fact is extremely pet friendly but for once, we wanted to shop, dine and sightsee without the limitations of a small extremely attached dog. 

We had been told that this weekend was the fiesta of the Basilica's namesake...Virgen de Salud.  But what we had no idea about was the extent to which Mexico's religious and indigenous persons participate in a fiesta of such importance.  

The sensory impact was just what we needed to overcome the effects of being in steamy hot Zihua and feeling slightly unwell for the past month.   The sights, sounds in the cool crisp air of Patzcuaro were magical.

Christmas is a semi-artificial construct here in the tropics.

 Palm trees festooned with lights and piñatas; skinny brown skinned Santa Claus's standing on the street corner in 90 degree heat...really?
So it was with extreme delight we were exposed to the cooler climates and elaborate decorations of the main Zocalo in Patzcuaro.  Christmas carols streamed on sophisticated sound systems to the delight of the many people strolling in the cool air and stopping to photograph their families in front of the beautiful light displays...a Xmas letter or family photo taken in a "winter wonderland".  

So what's Xmas without shopping, but I've become less likely to purchase nowadays preferring my trips to focus on the photos and the experiences.  It was wonderful that Evelyn had some items on her 'wish list" that we could shop for at our leisure in the bustling towns of Quiroga and Cuanajo; and the quiet empty streets of the pottery town Capula.  

But the most satisfying aspect of a Xmas shopping trip like we enjoyed was buying a handmade item directly from the artisans.  We bought more for what it would mean to the artisans than what the item meant to us.   The smiles on the faces of a family waiting for a days sale, the kiss on the money and the blessing of it with a "sign of the cross", before it is tucked away safely in clothing means everything to me.   Can I shop in Canada when I return? 

Is everything old what I yearn for?  I like to think I'm at pace with the world, but the appeal of simple life in the villages nearby and the knowledge that my purchase has made a difference makes me wonder if I'm stuck in the history, the cultural antiquity of Mexico....  Have I found the only kind of travel I really like...place steeped in history, where little has changed in the past century?  Maybe.....

Meanwhile, today we said "vaya con dios" to Doraliz, our young Ninos Adelante student who is leaving on her first solo trip to visit her brother and grandmother in Chilpancingo for the holidays.   She's had a little bit of a rough ride lately.   Her first real "love", a fellow student in her preparatory college had to flee town when his father was killed recently.  He and his uncle went to the US border and tried, with false papers to enter "the land of opportunity".   He was arrested and has spent the last 2 weeks in a Tijuana jail, now awaiting return to Zihuatanejo.   This experience has brought a new level of maturity to Doraliz, she is now interested in what's beyond Zihuatanejo, what would it take to travel to Canada?  How will she fare on a 6 hour bus trip and 2 weeks without family....it will broaden her horizons...and I hope in all the best of ways.   She needs this experience in a town where so many know only the familiar...will never know what the rest of the world is like except via television.  The gift of travel was the best present her parents could offer, and we are helping to support her on her first journey of discovery. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 So we are now into the final week of preparations before 2 of our 3 adult children, their partners and our friends arrive for the holidays.  Just like all my Christmases, it is a mixed blessing, so much to do, so little time, so many people I want to see, be with, so little space to do all I want. 

However, this year, like last, we've arranged to have Juanito Zihua perform a house concert before dinner here on Xmas day...but unlike last year, his focus is the collection of toys for his charity; which delivers toys to the poorest of children on the Feast of the Kings, January 6th.    This is Christmas in Mexico, the realization that we who have so much can be here and share our wealth with those who have so little... let the celebrations continue! 

Oh, and by the way, we did celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary.  No gifts, no elaborate dinners but the plans are underway for a Mexico City/Guatemala get away early in the New Year!  Felicidades. 

 

 

Keeping the love affair alive. The value of gratitude.

December is here.   The month I wait for in Mexico cause so many special things happen.   I love the nochebuena (poinsettias) and pinata stalls alongside La Boquita.   I love the parades for Virgen de Guadalupe.  I love the decorations in Colonia La Madera for our upcoming Posada.  

Little by little, I see the improvements being made in our city to get ready for the Navidena, 2 weeks of full on tourism at Xmas.  The town is getting pretty. 

      

 

Improvements are being made to our condominium and the last suites to have sold are nearing completion.  We are happy that everything looks so pretty and that the people we have visiting us are as thrilled with the same familiar places we go to each year.  They see the beauty in the midst of the poverty...they are charmed by the people I've introduced them to....they see that Mexico, unlike what the North American Press has broadcast is a truly charming place to visit or maybe even live. 

I have been struggling to remind myself of these things at the same time that our community of condominium owners seem unable to agree on the simplest of issues....things that in the big picture of life should be "non-issues" have risen to the point where emails stream back and forth and feelings and friendships are at risk.   I've been reduced to tears by the utter rudeness of fellow owners who now refuse to speak to me because I've moved a chair, or perhaps for another unknown reason that I will never realize.  Clarity is difficult to achieve when clear divisions in allegiances and groupings are becoming further and further entrenched.   I am at times embarrassed that we, a group of fairly well off, leisure-seeking Canadians and Americans, can't seem to focus on what is positive rather than focusing on negative commentary.   Do our Mexican owners, staff see our unhappy faces and wonder why?  

Is my love affair with Mexico ending?  I've had that thought in the last two weeks...is 10 years the span of my love?  Can the negative feelings inside our condominium complex diminish my ability to spend winters here?  

I've realized that just like my marriage, which is marking it's 35th anniversary this weekend with our annual pilgrimage to Patzcuaro, my life here is determined by me.  Not by others.  Yoga has given me the insight into the value of gratitude for all that I have and that no aspect of my life should be taken for granted.    Nothing is permanent...

 

For some of our friends, health has changed this year.   Perhaps they will not be able to make Mexico a big part of their lives.   I have to acknowledge that with Gene's turning 70, we are lucky to be able to be here.   I will make this the best of times for our Xmas with the members of our family who are able to be here.   And I will start my day with feelings of gratitude for life in this beautiful place...life outside the walls of our condominium.  In Mexico, where the best and worst of times collide daily.   I know I love you Mexico, cause just like being married, we're in it for the best and worst of times...no getting out just because you've been hurt....I'm here to stay! 

 

Lessons learned...living life mindfully, or at least while my mind still recognizes this is learning!

Three weeks have passed since arrival, three short weeks in our 6 months of life here...but as always being "me" means that I want to be back to what we considered the "fun" of our life here quickly....but because this is not a vacation, this is our life, it is not something that can just be made to happen by wishing.  Lessons learned start when you consider developing the Mexican patience.   The Mexican approach to life...poco a poco...little by little...so my lessons have started.  

We have celebrated two major events in the past 2 weeks.   Firstly and perhaps the most significant is that Gene turned 70.   Of course there will be people who say that is not really a big deal anymore...after all..isn't 70 the new 50?  No it isn't.  70 is 70 because for most of us, we have too many friends who aren't going to be here at 70.  They have already passed away, so what used to be considered a non-event, was for me a reason to acknowledge friends and family (or at least the family we have to be with us this month).   It was a reason to celebrate the life we have created here in our 6 month home and to celebrate the sensory rewards of life in our Mexican neighborhood.   I'm proud of Gene's continued vitality and wanted to celebrate a life well lived...and the better half of that has been together...better half, we made a great "whole" of this Mexican life. 

The second major event that has begun to occur is the sale of our original apartment.   This apartment was purchased by Gene and I as our first foray into Mexican life and was a place that we fell in love with due to the artful combination of Mexican tropical construction and lush garden areas.   Selling was bitter sweet, but my recent learning in life is to try to not have more than I can manage, to live more simply and to simplify so that the years ahead will be less stressful and more about the experience of the moment.   I want to have disposal assets to use to travel to visit children and hopefully grandchildren someday.  So our decision to sell which was quickly brought into an action plan with the right younger couple from Calgary wanting to make the leap into owning Mexican real estate....has provided us with ever so much learning...where to begin? 

1.  I've learned that even here in "paradise" that rainy days and grey skies reduce my energy.   Sunshine makes me thrive and energizes my spirit.   Thank goodness our rainy days are over!  Zihua winter is here! 

 

2.  After the rains, nature is very happy.  This tropical landscape is alive with birds and flowers not normally seen in the dry season.  

 

 



3. That being sick is a bad thing.  Gene and I have had a week of the flu/cold "grippe" that has been running through our community.   We have luckily made a nearly perfect recovery...the last physical thing I did before being completely stricken was my kayak trip and memories of being active and the desire to rebuild my strength and activity is strong.  I don't like feeling weak and the only real cure for how we feel is "exercise"...the more the better....got to continue exercising strong and hard this winter.   Yoga, zumba, swimming, kayaking, walking...the more the better (hear that pelvis/SI joint!)

 

4. If you dream it, plan it and do it, it will happen.   Gene's birthday party was "the best birthday party in my life"...not because of me, but because of all the people who played a role in making it so.  It was like a well constructed evening of the best that life could offer to celebrate 70 years and it was so because of the efforts of so many.   Fernando, the waiter at Las Adelitas shared my vision of the perfect place to host a party....and he made it so.  

 

5.  There are certain moments in life when "music" speaks to you.  Your heart is affected, the tones vibrate through your body and music lifts you to a level of ecstasy that surpasses everything else in the moment.   Mariachis' can do that for me and they did. 

 

 

6.  There are people here in Zihuatanejo who hold such a special place in our hearts because they really are special people.  People who share our sense of what's important in life.  That life is better when surrounded by ocean, warm air and sunshine....and when something hurts those people, I am hurt too.   Our good friend Elizabeth, who is no longer physically young was robbed by a young man who seems to be stalking single women in our area.  He has not hurt anyone, however, what he is doing is an assault on our sense of freedom here and the wonderfully safe area we live in.  I am outraged and I will not be stopped in my quest to tell enough people with authority to put an end to this.   He needs to be found.   Meantime, I will do my best to never allow him to change what I take for granted, freedom to walk alone anytime here.   To Elizabeth, we are so grateful you weren't injured more seriously and we are so proud to call you a friend, as a woman, and a Canadian who loves Zihua like we do.   



 

7. It always pays to be a friendly person.  I try to seek out the connections in our community and to be the connector for people whom I know and for those who are new to our area and our home.   In this case, my chance comment to Jack and Bev from Calgary lead to them becoming the newest owners in La Ceiba...people who will have years ahead to enjoy their life in tropical Mexico.  Welcome to our world! 

8. When your own family cannot be here, it is so important to be part of a family here in Mexico.  We have been given the gift of being able to sponsor a Nino's Adelante student and this is our 4th year of being part of her family...but now I see she is also a part of our family.   When she and her siblings and neighbours arrived at Gene's party...it was the magic we needed.  Children, a piñata and get away taxi for 8...what more can you ask for?  

9. Flowers make everything more beautiful.... and that beauty is everywhere when you look for it.

 

10.  Look for the unexpected in Mexico...the chance encounters, the smiles, the formalities, and the opportunities, because this is a complex society, it is a modern developing country still holding onto Spanish colonial traditions and ways of life that run into the new at every opportunity.   So when Gene shook hands with our real estate agent/ Mexican lawyer/legal translator, even Gene wasn't surprised when a few minutes later he was called back by the lawyer to say that a fast cash drop off could go a long way to getting the Mexican license plates our car now needs to remain legally here.   Don't ask questions and we'll never know how......aaah...this just could be the best real estate deal we've ever done!

 



 

Viva Mexico...Dia de La Revolucion!!



 

Returning to Mexico. When the same is always different

Every October for the last 6 years we have experienced a mix of emotions as we revel in the beauty of fall in Canada; knowing that we have planned to escape the signature season that defines Canada in the minds of the majority of the world.  The Land of the Great Frozen North, Igloos, Eskimos and Hockey.   Of course in Victoria, our summer time home on Vancouver Island, all of the aforementioned are not remotely connected to a west coast wintertime experience; which sadly consists almost entirely of dreary, grey wet days and nights.  Sunshine is at a premium and we sense the pending gloom as the days shorten prior to our departure. 

This fall was so pristinely spectacular that our leaving did make me feel briefly like perhaps this dual life is a luxury we aren't really fully entitled to.  Saying goodbye to friends, family, neighbours, our home and the wonderful tenants who have chosen to live in it for the last 3 years we review our mental checklist as to whether we've remembered everything that is necessary for our Mexican life for the next 6 months.   With our faithful "Mexidoodle" Cori clinging to our sides, terror stricken that he might not be coming, we headed to Vancouver to say goodbye to Eric and his girlfriend Elena and leave them my car so they can enjoy some of the ski hills in a vehicle that is hopefully more suited to snowy roads than my aged Volvo that he has nurtured into a ripe old age.  

The flights seem to be less about the comforts and leisure of flying and more about a grit your teeth endurance of uncomfortable seats, bad food. crammed carry-on storage and dirty airports, but we remind ourselves that when you bring along your life for 6 months; it is possible to endure anything, only twice/year.

The summer season, the wet season in Mexico had been particularly fierce for Zihuatanejo and moreso for the outlying areas around Guerrero State.  So approaching the airport, we weren't surprised to see that the lagoons around Barra de Potosi and Playa Blanca had expanded into the green mounds of coconut trees and mango orchards.  Water, water everywhere and ..... what would we find in our city?

Owning two condominiums with a full time manager and staff ensure that care is provided year around to the pools, common areas and lovely gardens.  But the humid, tropical air is particularly hard on electrical connections and we weren't surprised to find the majority of light bulbs, two air-conditioners, our car battery and air-conditioning had once again succumbed to the summertime oxidation of all things metal.  Water had entered both apartments, but the clean up had been done quickly and all furnishings faired well.  The town however is still in the midst of struggling to make a complete comeback.   Streets are lined with dried dirt from the mud that flowed in the rain deluges.  Internet services are diminished and at time absent.  City water is a sought after commodity; again being condo owners we are lucky to have huge cisterns where "pipa" water trucks can deliver large volumes if needed.  Stores, restaurants and services that are normally gearing up for the "highseason" are happy to see us, but I sense a diminished number of places have survived this low season.  Low in so many ways. 

One of our most important first day activities was to connect with Doraliz and her sisters who were eagerly awaiting our arrival.  It would be naïve and egotistical to think that their eagerness was because of the great love they feel for us; I think they are genuinely fond of this middle aged Canadian couple who lack children of their own (or at least only see them briefly for visits) and eat strange food and drink strange drinks and treat their dog like a child and have more rooms to live in than people to live in them; but quite honestly, I believe their eagerness to see us almost immediately on arrival had more to do with the hoped for "laptop", "cellphone" or other treasure from Canada.

So our intial visits have been a combination of great hugging catch ups, pool time, shopping trips and a small scale birthday celebration for Doraliz, now 17 and displaying all the same behaviors of 17 year olds that I remember....an obsession with computers, cell phones, and socializing.  We hope she will be safe in a world where being young, poor, female and influenced by the Americanization of the world could lead to some poor choices....so we ask about her life, her new "novio" and how her family are coping when neither parent seems to have a steady source of income and now 8 people call their modest structure home.  

We are gradually re-establishing ourselves and beginning to take on some first time challenges too.  Gene has met the requirements to be a "permanent resident".  Next step is to research his health care options, and also the ability to "legalize" our BC Plated car as mostly it seems that his new status precludes our ability to continue to drive the car we brought down 6 years ago.   And we are in the early stages of planning a sale of our small rental apartment.  It's an apartment I love in a complex that I adore, but we have decided that having more discretionary money for travel in the next ten years is a bigger priority at this point in life than owning 2 homes in Mexico.  I'm trying to think like a Mexican, not having more than I need, valuing people and experiences, living in the moment, not worrying about the future.....   And at the same time living in a world of sensual experiences that enhance my life. 

Yoga is my connection to a group of women who have made Zihua home.  Let's see where this season takes me and us; as we Mexicanize our lives!