Monday, December 30, 2013

El Fin de Ano...Family, Friends, Food, Fiestas and Fun.

 
 
Christmas 2013, one of our lucky ones.  First came Eric and Elena; Eric who loves to use his Xmas work shut down time as a recreational retreat here in sunny and warm Zihuatanejo and his Russian born girlfriend who has never travelled to Mexico before.

Elena is a tiny package of full on energy and vitality who is capable of drinking and eating with the rest of the pack.  She's enjoyed every moment so far during her stay here.  They arrived just in time to see the Posada in Colonia La Madera, an annual evening of celebrations as the local children perform the "pastorela" and the colonia celebrates on Calle Adelita. 
 
Then came Amy and Patrick, our hardworking farmers from Sideroad Natural Farm, in frozen winter Ontario.   Due to the massive ice storm that struck Toronto on the day before their flight, and the unfortunate choice of Sunwing Airlines (never to be repeated in the future), their already short Xmas vacation was further reduced by a 6 hour delayed arrival. 
Waiting for Amy and Patrick's arrival with us, are our longtime family friends Paul McNamara and his daughters who spent last Xmas here in Zihuatanejo.  This year Kate's new friend Leif, a "average Canadian guy", with no experience in Mexico is here to unwind after a stint in Afghanistan with the Canadian Forces and before he returns to his Army job in Victoria.   We think Zihua offers just the right mix of relaxation and beauty to move on from life in one of the world's disaster zones.  (Plus there are third world similarities he can relate to).
 
 
 
One thing I've learned about Xmas in Zihuatanejo is that there is absolutely no point in spending all day in the kitchen, so when our condo complex decided to have Juanito Zihua and I planned a potluck Xmas dinner for 26...I knew that Monica would be my "go to gal" for the best Mole in town...and as always Monica of Patio Mexica Cooking School did not disappoint.   The best mole and the best dish at the potluck if I do say so.... Even more yummy than Juanito who was a star again. 
 
 
 
 

 One of my best moments was watching Eric and Elena dancing under the stars at Casa Ceiba....go Eric, you might just get the salsa moves yet!
 
 
 Xmas Day was a fun time with Secret Santas, Mimosa's and a lively group.  Since then each day has involved the beach, sand, sun, water and watching athletic people pack away enormous quantities of food and drink.  In the best spirit of Mexicans at the beachside at Xmas...it has been huge fun. 
 
 

 Playa Larga gave Patrick an exciting fishing experience and Gene came to the rescue to remove the young manta ray hooked on the wing. 
 A long and demanding walk to Playa Manzanillo rewarded us with a great snorkel and even better, a pick up by Gene with his legendary "car beers" for those of us who were smart enough to get in the car rather than walk the whole distance back. 

But sadly, and with mixed emotions, today we said goodbye to Amy and Patrick, but first we all enjoyed an amazing seaside dinner at Il Bacco.  I love my family, this would've only been more complete if Kristen could've joined us...we missed you and hope you had a great time with your friends.  
And tomorrow is the start of a New Year for me...yes one day early, but it my birthday.  I know that I have enjoyed a wonderful 62 years and hope that this next year continues to reward my family with health and happiness.  Each of our children is working hard to achieve their dreams and Gene and I are so proud of who they are and who they are becoming.  
 
 
We've spent the last two months physically, socially and emotionally adjusting to our life in the tropics. But just in the last two days things have started to change.   The air has a slight chill, the water is noticeably cooler and we've begun to use our covers at night...welcome to winter in Zihuatanejo.   Eric and Elena are off to learn how to surf for a couple of days this week, and then we'll soon say adios to them and send them off with a new and renewed sense of the spirit of Mexico.  Xmas here in Zihua is after all a Xmas season of Mexicans enjoying one of their most favorite places and we are caught up in the happy spirit of these days. 
 
 
And my blog wouldn't be a completely honest reflection of this season if I didn't acknowledge the loss of one of our fellow Canadian residents of Zihuatanejo.   Hank Bloy, a neighbour and friend passed away on Xmas Eve after experiencing declining health.  Hank was "a world traveller", and a perfect gentleman of profound faith who lived in Mexico 7 months each year with his wife and best friend Dominique.  He loved Zihuatanejo and was loved by all.   He will be missed.  
 


Saturday, December 14, 2013

Broadening horizons...travelling to places so old but so new. How to get my Xmas on Mexican style.

Last weekend, Gene and I with our neighbour and friend Evelyn travelled inland.  Only 4 hours drive, but worlds away in terms of climate, culture and experiences is one of our favorite travel destinations; Patzcuaro.   This time, thanks to the kindness of Kathy, Evelyn's friend, we left Cori behind and headed back to our favorite little hotel La Casa Encantada .   This little hotel in fact is extremely pet friendly but for once, we wanted to shop, dine and sightsee without the limitations of a small extremely attached dog. 

We had been told that this weekend was the fiesta of the Basilica's namesake...Virgen de Salud.  But what we had no idea about was the extent to which Mexico's religious and indigenous persons participate in a fiesta of such importance.  

The sensory impact was just what we needed to overcome the effects of being in steamy hot Zihua and feeling slightly unwell for the past month.   The sights, sounds in the cool crisp air of Patzcuaro were magical.

Christmas is a semi-artificial construct here in the tropics.



 Palm trees festooned with lights and piƱatas; skinny brown skinned Santa Claus's standing on the street corner in 90 degree heat...really?
So it was with extreme delight we were exposed to the cooler climates and elaborate decorations of the main Zocalo in Patzcuaro.  Christmas carols streamed on sophisticated sound systems to the delight of the many people strolling in the cool air and stopping to photograph their families in front of the beautiful light displays...a Xmas letter or family photo taken in a "winter wonderland".  
So what's Xmas without shopping, but I've become less likely to purchase nowadays preferring my trips to focus on the photos and the experiences.  It was wonderful that Evelyn had some items on her 'wish list" that we could shop for at our leisure in the bustling towns of Quiroga and Cuanajo; and the quiet empty streets of the pottery town Capula.  


But the most satisfying aspect of a Xmas shopping trip like we enjoyed was buying a handmade item directly from the artisans.  We bought more for what it would mean to the artisans than what the item meant to us.   The smiles on the faces of a family waiting for a days sale, the kiss on the money and the blessing of it with a "sign of the cross", before it is tucked away safely in clothing means everything to me.   Can I shop in Canada when I return? 
Is everything old what I yearn for?  I like to think I'm at pace with the world, but the appeal of simple life in the villages nearby and the knowledge that my purchase has made a difference makes me wonder if I'm stuck in the history, the cultural antiquity of Mexico....  Have I found the only kind of travel I really like...place steeped in history, where little has changed in the past century?  Maybe.....

Meanwhile, today we said "vaya con dios" to Doraliz, our young Ninos Adelante student who is leaving on her first solo trip to visit her brother and grandmother in Chilpancingo for the holidays.   She's had a little bit of a rough ride lately.   Her first real "love", a fellow student in her preparatory college had to flee town when his father was killed recently.  He and his uncle went to the US border and tried, with false papers to enter "the land of opportunity".   He was arrested and has spent the last 2 weeks in a Tijuana jail, now awaiting return to Zihuatanejo.   This experience has brought a new level of maturity to Doraliz, she is now interested in what's beyond Zihuatanejo, what would it take to travel to Canada?  How will she fare on a 6 hour bus trip and 2 weeks without family....it will broaden her horizons...and I hope in all the best of ways.   She needs this experience in a town where so many know only the familiar...will never know what the rest of the world is like except via television.  The gift of travel was the best present her parents could offer, and we are helping to support her on her first journey of discovery. 
 
 
 
 


 
 

 
 So we are now into the final week of preparations before 2 of our 3 adult children, their partners and our friends arrive for the holidays.  Just like all my Christmases, it is a mixed blessing, so much to do, so little time, so many people I want to see, be with, so little space to do all I want. 

However, this year, like last, we've arranged to have Juanito Zihua perform a house concert before dinner here on Xmas day...but unlike last year, his focus is the collection of toys for his charity; which delivers toys to the poorest of children on the Feast of the Kings, January 6th.    This is Christmas in Mexico, the realization that we who have so much can be here and share our wealth with those who have so little... let the celebrations continue! 

Oh, and by the way, we did celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary.  No gifts, no elaborate dinners but the plans are underway for a Mexico City/Guatemala get away early in the New Year!  Felicidades. 
 

 

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Keeping the love affair alive. The value of gratitude.

December is here.   The month I wait for in Mexico cause so many special things happen.   I love the nochebuena (poinsettias) and pinata stalls alongside La Boquita.   I love the parades for Virgen de Guadalupe.  I love the decorations in Colonia La Madera for our upcoming Posada.  
Little by little, I see the improvements being made in our city to get ready for the Navidena, 2 weeks of full on tourism at Xmas.  The town is getting pretty. 

      
 
Improvements are being made to our condominium and the last suites to have sold are nearing completion.  We are happy that everything looks so pretty and that the people we have visiting us are as thrilled with the same familiar places we go to each year.  They see the beauty in the midst of the poverty...they are charmed by the people I've introduced them to....they see that Mexico, unlike what the North American Press has broadcast is a truly charming place to visit or maybe even live. 

I have been struggling to remind myself of these things at the same time that our community of condominium owners seem unable to agree on the simplest of issues....things that in the big picture of life should be "non-issues" have risen to the point where emails stream back and forth and feelings and friendships are at risk.   I've been reduced to tears by the utter rudeness of fellow owners who now refuse to speak to me because I've moved a chair, or perhaps for another unknown reason that I will never realize.  Clarity is difficult to achieve when clear divisions in allegiances and groupings are becoming further and further entrenched.   I am at times embarrassed that we, a group of fairly well off, leisure-seeking Canadians and Americans, can't seem to focus on what is positive rather than focusing on negative commentary.   Do our Mexican owners, staff see our unhappy faces and wonder why?  

Is my love affair with Mexico ending?  I've had that thought in the last two weeks...is 10 years the span of my love?  Can the negative feelings inside our condominium complex diminish my ability to spend winters here?  

I've realized that just like my marriage, which is marking it's 35th anniversary this weekend with our annual pilgrimage to Patzcuaro, my life here is determined by me.  Not by others.  Yoga has given me the insight into the value of gratitude for all that I have and that no aspect of my life should be taken for granted.    Nothing is permanent...

 

For some of our friends, health has changed this year.   Perhaps they will not be able to make Mexico a big part of their lives.   I have to acknowledge that with Gene's turning 70, we are lucky to be able to be here.   I will make this the best of times for our Xmas with the members of our family who are able to be here.   And I will start my day with feelings of gratitude for life in this beautiful place...life outside the walls of our condominium.  In Mexico, where the best and worst of times collide daily.   I know I love you Mexico, cause just like being married, we're in it for the best and worst of times...no getting out just because you've been hurt....I'm here to stay!