A few days on "the other side"

Remembering the words of my good friend Helga who has lived in some of Africa's many countries; she would have said what we had seen so far in the cool, colonial, historic Spanish areas of Guatemala was for "the sissies".  

Emerging from our overnite bus ride in Santa Elena and arriving in Flores; our chosen base for seeing Tikal felt like we were in a new country.   Our bare bones hotel did nothing to cheer our spirits as we waited in the warm, grey skied early morning air for our pre- arranged day trip to Tikal. 

Not a cappuccino maker insight.  Suddenly no one was wearing the beautiful traditional huipiles, woven belts and skirts...we were in the land of t-shirts and modern clothes, courtesy of Walmarts in the U.S. 

Luckily the five hours we spent in the beautiful jungle and majesty of the enormous Tikal ruins cured us of our overnite bus funk and we began to see the best of Peten department.Note* Departments in Guatemala are the equivalent of States or Provinces. 

The people, the tranquility, and frankly some great little restaurants along the islands waterfront and crisscrossing streets charmed us.  We also learned that Lake Peten Itza has no rivers running in or out and rises with the frequent rains for 50 years; and then slowly drains back to a low level.  Waterfront houses; businesses and transport all know their days are limited as the water is on the rise. 

Personally escorted to the shabby bus station after 2 nights in our barely adequate hotel; a near tragedy of a lost camera/passport recovered with the immediate assistance of yet another kind stranger and we left Rio Dulce for the remote Caribbean corner of Izabal department.

Two and a half hours of a covered high speed panga boat ride up the scenic Rio Dulce and we arrived at Livingston...the remote region of Garifuna culture unique to this area.   A sidenote- our boat was full to overflowing with travelers of all ages and from all countries.  Backpacks were stuffed in the bow and in an unusual display of safety concerns we were held at the dock until 5 passengers were asked to unload with their various gear.  The still crowded boat left the dock with all lifejackets hanging on the rack on the shore.

Livingston is a scenic place.   I had read that the local specialty was "tapado" a coconut/curry fish stew with plantain...so based on Trip Advisor, we dined at the highly rated but incredibly spartan waterfront restaurant ranked #1.  Not quite a foodies dream, but very tasty and very laid back! 

Day 2 here and rather than commit to a full day on a boat trip, we decided to get up early to see a Caribbean sunrise and walk the streets in the safety of daylight.


 Last evening while strolling through town after dinner, in one of my lesser moments of wisdom, I had let my desire for adventure overcome both my intuition and Gene's attempted warnings.  One of Livingston's many poor black men had lured us with the promise of a chance to hear authentic "punta" music in an area off the tourist streets.  Luckily it only cost us 30 quetzales and we were able to walk away to an area that felt safe.  It could have turned out much differently.  An ex-pat who observed part of our predicament explained it.  There are no jobs for most of the people who live here.  So this one man; obviously very poor, hungry and perhaps with addictions had made himself a job....being very friendly and having just the perfect tale of his family's music school...and I came along!

At about the closest to the sea beach table we've ever had we treated ourselves to fresh ceviche and the cuddly hugs of the owners new pup.

Tomorrow we start our long journey home; boat, bus, two flights and an equally cuddly dog waiting for our return.  May our good fortunes here take us safely home. We are ready!

From the mountain tops-a little clarity and a lot of faith

I certainly didn't expect Lake Atitlan to look quite the way it appeared on our first views from the window of our speeding "turismo van"as we began the long winding descent down the inside walls of the giant crater where the lake sits.  We had left Antigua with our next 3 days to tour the PacificHighlands arranged by Cesar; the friendly owner of Planeta Maya travel company. Everyone here has been so friendly, so it came as a bit of a shock when our van driver didn't greet us and continued to appear more angry or stressed with each customer he collected

  With 10 of us packed tightly in we witnessed his displays of road rage and a close call in a line of traffic where he defiantly squeezed ahead to the anger of other drivers.  So when he dropped us off in the center of Panajachel and we foolishly paid 50 Quetzales for a tuctuc ride to our hotel we wondered how this first experience of someone else arranging our trip would be. 

Luckily our small hotel on the outskirts of town was the ideal location to access the recently developed Reserva Atitlan; a butterfly, wild animal and nature sanctuary that I later learned was ranked #1 trip advisor activity.  2 hours later we headed into town to see the hippie-haven of Pana!

Sunset over Lake Atitlan; a great dinner in an Uruguayan grill and a much more realistically priced tuctuc ride back in the dark to our hotel.

The second day we had prebooked a boat tour to 3 villages; but without leaving the dock I became the proud new owner of 2 antique huipiles sold by a family.  Always for me my purchase is about the who...not the what.  I will remember her great sense of humor and cunning sales technique a long time.

Gene was never happier than when the tour brought us back; just one too many pueblos  lined with vendors waiting for new arrivals to purchase more of the same fabrics for him to have fun.

Day 3 and in the cool mountain air and a cloudy sky threatening rain we arrived at market day in Chichicastenango affectionately called Chichi by locals.   Winding around grey hillsides, grey houses and grey skies I think I know why the colors in the markets are so vibrant.

Like San Juan Chamula in Chiapas; this is one of the places where Mayan ceremonies invade crumbling Catholic churches.  We took refuge in a great little cafe to finally enjoy some of the locally grown beans Guatemala is famous for.  It's amazing how elusive good coffee can be even in a country that grows so much.

This is our last day in the volcanic highlands.  As we wander the streets back in the now familiar Antigua; we see the tour vans whisking the various tourists from one place to another.  Everyone takes a leap of faith that their rides will work, they will make their connection and that crowded van will hold just one more person.  Backpacks are thrown on the roof rack and are miraculously sitting on top when you arrive; just one more of the lucky of us not strapped in.

The local "chicken bus" is just not an option.  These one time school buses from the US have been reborn with the colors of Guatemala; however, the original engines and brakes designed for slow speed travel to and from schools now careen at top speed over the winding mountain roads.

 Tonight we are departing on the overnight luxury bus to the steamy tropical town of Flores.  Tikal here we come!

Guatemala-Welcome to a country of surprises

I know that reading a guidebook shouldn't form your perception; but based on our previous trips to Chiapas and Oaxaca I had some pre-conceived images of what we would encounter on our first visit to this small, verdant, diverse geographic country where Mayan culture once thrived.

Arriving to Guatemala City, I was able to catch a final glimpse of one of the many volcanoes that extend right to thevMexican border; and have played their part in the seismic activity that still threatens this land.   Swift; efficient customs clearance and  45 min. Shuttle Bus ride (Does everyone speak English and seem so helpful) we arrived at Casa Capuchinas.  Just as the groom and his elegantly dressed family posed for photos.

The hotel was booked for the family wedding of the owner's friends, and rather than refuse my booking.com reservation; we were upgraded to their nearby Casa de Los Suenos. And given 2 nights free for the change.  I can't help but hope that a Canadian hotel would do the same for a first time Guatemala visitor.

Just 3 cobblestone streets to the zocalo and we were transported into Guatemala's Dia de la Candelaria celebration....and the most yummy vegetarian tostados I've had...picture perfect!

The next morning, we had a chance to see one of the 3 volcanoes live;  soon to be covered by the clouds that roll onto the top of the mountains later in the day

A visit to the market is an important experience in every place we visit and we had been told Mondays were a big day here.  So after saying adios to the weekend crowd of wealthy "Guate" residents who crowd the touristy shops on the weekend (think Banff,Whistler,Tepoztlan) we headed to the large bustling Mercado.

Tomorrow we say "hasta luego" to Antigua.  We've put our next 9 days in the hands of a randomly chosen tour company "Planeta Maya".  We told the very friendly owner of this 18 year old travel company where we wanted to go and after problem-solving our way thru plans A, B, and C. ....our journey is set!  Guatemala here we come!  You have surprised us with your affluence, and have charmed us with your generosity.  Now we are selfishly seeking more of your beauty!

Note:  My blog and photos are being composed using only my Google Nexus Smartphone. Slowly and with one finger...and a glass of tequila at my side.