I certainly didn't expect Lake Atitlan to look quite the way it appeared on our first views from the window of our speeding "turismo van"as we began the long winding descent down the inside walls of the giant crater where the lake sits. We had left Antigua with our next 3 days to tour the PacificHighlands arranged by Cesar; the friendly owner of Planeta Maya travel company. Everyone here has been so friendly, so it came as a bit of a shock when our van driver didn't greet us and continued to appear more angry or stressed with each customer he collected
With 10 of us packed tightly in we witnessed his displays of road rage and a close call in a line of traffic where he defiantly squeezed ahead to the anger of other drivers. So when he dropped us off in the center of Panajachel and we foolishly paid 50 Quetzales for a tuctuc ride to our hotel we wondered how this first experience of someone else arranging our trip would be.
Luckily our small hotel on the outskirts of town was the ideal location to access the recently developed Reserva Atitlan; a butterfly, wild animal and nature sanctuary that I later learned was ranked #1 trip advisor activity. 2 hours later we headed into town to see the hippie-haven of Pana!
Sunset over Lake Atitlan; a great dinner in an Uruguayan grill and a much more realistically priced tuctuc ride back in the dark to our hotel.
The second day we had prebooked a boat tour to 3 villages; but without leaving the dock I became the proud new owner of 2 antique huipiles sold by a family. Always for me my purchase is about the who...not the what. I will remember her great sense of humor and cunning sales technique a long time.
Gene was never happier than when the tour brought us back; just one too many pueblos lined with vendors waiting for new arrivals to purchase more of the same fabrics for him to have fun.
Day 3 and in the cool mountain air and a cloudy sky threatening rain we arrived at market day in Chichicastenango affectionately called Chichi by locals. Winding around grey hillsides, grey houses and grey skies I think I know why the colors in the markets are so vibrant.
Like San Juan Chamula in Chiapas; this is one of the places where Mayan ceremonies invade crumbling Catholic churches. We took refuge in a great little cafe to finally enjoy some of the locally grown beans Guatemala is famous for. It's amazing how elusive good coffee can be even in a country that grows so much.
This is our last day in the volcanic highlands. As we wander the streets back in the now familiar Antigua; we see the tour vans whisking the various tourists from one place to another. Everyone takes a leap of faith that their rides will work, they will make their connection and that crowded van will hold just one more person. Backpacks are thrown on the roof rack and are miraculously sitting on top when you arrive; just one more of the lucky of us not strapped in.
The local "chicken bus" is just not an option. These one time school buses from the US have been reborn with the colors of Guatemala; however, the original engines and brakes designed for slow speed travel to and from schools now careen at top speed over the winding mountain roads.
Tonight we are departing on the overnight luxury bus to the steamy tropical town of Flores. Tikal here we come!
Looking good..........
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