Thursday, February 19, 2015

Grocery Shopping is a Mexican adventure

It's been a few days since I walked on La Madera beach early in the morning, just in time to see the sun rise behind the hills south on La Ropa beach.  Yet again, I find a treasure!  A local man has created a stunning sand creation for Valentine's Day (Dia de la Amistad).   His work is legendary here...and it's all done with no funding I believe, but just simply to celebrate a place he loves...stay tuned for a creation I see underway today celebrating the ocean where a sirena serenely floats amid grasses.  Sirenas, "mermaids" are the stuff dreams are made of here in Zihuatanejo, the place of women. 

When one needs groceries, and even though it's tempting to only eat out, I do prefer cooking as a healthier and cost conscious option;  one can choose a couple of methods...the easy "Gringo Friendly" Commercial Mexicana, a well stocked and familiar Costco affiliate that offers everything one needs in a clean, bright air-conditioned store similar to stores "back home".  Hence the appeal to the many North American retirees who are currently here in Zihua.   At this time of year, the customers are easily 5 Gringo's to every 1 Mexican, except on "loss leader Wednesdays" when the aisles are filled with produce at bargain basement prices...I forgot my camera, but I promise a photo in the future to be added right here!

When planning a shopping trip to CM, we bring the car and load up the trunk with alcohol, big box items and head to and from home in a hurry so nothing is spoiled in the 30+ degree weather.

Or, in direct contrast , the other food shopping option, which I often prefer; is to walk the steaming busy streets and enter the main Mercado Principal with it's mazelike hallways, vendors and stalls and find just about anything and everything that is in season, fresh and delicious.  I prefer the street stalls and market for fresh produce, fish and flowers; leaving my canned goods, alcohol, paper products and other household needs to the big grocery store chain. 


Oaxaca treats made a special appearance in the streets surrounding Mercado this week.  Chapulines (dried grasshoppers) and fava beans in chili...both favorite "botanos" that are made to accompany a chilled mescal or tequila in the afternoon!

Pancho tells me that the Huachinango "Red Snapper" fishing was exceptionally good last night, so his stall has these faces cheerily waiting to be bought.
 
 
Local Musicians serenade the shoppers who have stopped for a bite to eat in one of the many lunch counter style "fondas" surrounding the stalls. 
 
 
 

After the market, walking back along Calle Cocos, I find my favorite avocado man, who although I suspect I get charged the "gringa price"; usually throws in one of the pre-cut display halves for free.
And I love the tropical plant stalls that have sprung up.  I am a regular purchaser of plants even though our condo is full of beauty I can find room for one or two more each season and when they outgrow their pots on my patio, they are welcomed into the gardens at Casa Ceiba.
Trucks drive into town from the surrounding farms and sometimes, I suspect they don't even have to unload, but are instead bought out by customers before they reach the shops they were intended for.
Back in Commercial to gather some staples that you can't buy as easily in the market, I can't help but notice the vats of pre-made mole all decorated and ready to go.  Not something I've considered buying in bulk...but who knows?  Maybe this is truly the modern Mexican woman's convenience store.

Back in my neighborhood, I'm struck with the beauty of the banana flower and baby bananas hanging in my neighbours garden.  Food and beauty are everywhere in Zihuatanejo!

Monday, February 9, 2015

Zihuatanejo - International City of Peace (so proud of the little town that could!)

Yesterday was one of those days that the stars just aligned in all the right ways to focus my little love affair with Zihua. 


First of all, it was another glorious, blue sky day.  After my long morning walk, and Gene's exceedingly long bike ride in Ixtapa, we went out of town to the fresh air breezy location of Playa Larga.  It's an easy car ride and a quick walk out to our usual spot where we set up our chairs and umbrella and relax...well, at least one of us does.  The other spends their time throwing balls,  walking the hard sand at the waters' edge, dodging huge waves and interacting with 2 local beach dogs who decided our place looked pretty inviting, with a fresh water bowl, shade and a cute little poodle-cross to play with.   All with a constant eye out in case the caballeros on their ponies are heading our way,  Cori is not a "horse dog" and requires saving a few times each year when he chooses to bark full on at the hooves of the handsome and ever so patient cowboys and their gentle mounts.



Just as we were getting ready to leave, the show began!  Humpback Whales have been making the long arching bay of Playa Blanca their winter breeding and feeding grounds and they put on quite a show.  Regrettably, we were not equipped with cameras for the occasion, but it is a great feeling to see them breaching and blowing and shining in the sun. 




So on arrival back home, after unloading the pounds of sand that Gene finds so annoying from car, bags, clothes, dog, chairs and umbrellas, I headed to El Centro to see what a "peace ceremony" would be like.  Dignitaries from the local, municipal, and state governments were on hand together with the various members of the Peace Committee who have worked for years to meet the qualifications required to receive this honorary designation.  With heavily armed federal police, security agents and local police forces ringing the square, the recently appointed governor was escorted onstage to make his first appearance locally since the 43 students in Iguala disappeared at the hands of what is supposedly a government led massacre.  I found myself wondering what the ceremony could signify that would bring about any real change in this country where violent means is the end of many lives.





Could these sweet and smiling young boys and girls of the program Nino's Adelante who had been invited to sing with Juanito be the beginning of a change of heart in Mexico?  Let's hope so...

On my morning walk today,  peace was indeed in the air, I can't imagine any place I'd rather be on a dull and rainy day back on Denman Island, than here in Colonia La Madera, one of the UN's designated centers of peace! 

We can and do hope for a better future for our adopted home.  Let Peace prevail!
 

 



 

 




 

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

A place for everyone, and where everyone is needed

The winter tourist season is in high swing since we left just before Christmas...I was worried, what with warnings from both US and Canadian governments, a chaotic and dysfunctional local government, a city with crumbling infrastructure and health concerns, would people come back?  All one needs to know the answer is to walk the streets of Colonia La Madera to realize, yes the tourists are here!  Restaurants that seemed at risk of survival, with little or no customers in early December are now experiencing line-ups each night.  I'm happy for my Mexican friends.  They basically earn their entire years income in the 5 months between December and end of April, when the last of the die-hard Mexico lovers pack up and head back to what is hopefully a warmer clime.   And they do it with non-stop smiles, friendly hugs and for those of us whom they have come to know, a genuine interest in how we are.  It's a love-in of epic proportions. 


 But as I glance around the faces of the "extranjeros"...many familiar, but also many new faces who may be on their first vacation here and stroll in groups through the town, I wonder....do they understand how their world and this world are so far apart?  Do they see the need, or like us, until we knew the Mexican families and; became part time residents of a small neighborhood where we know the neighbors, Nino's Adelante sponsors,  -  is it just a pretty beach side town with too many bars, too many restaurants and an abundance of tacky tourist stuff to bring home as a "recuerdo" of Mexico? 

In our first week,  we have been reconnected with the people we love.  Doraliz has matured, she is within a few months of high school graduation and remains committed to her goal of nursing school.  This tugs at my heart strings a little...I never expected any of my children to become nurses, but thinking of my sponsored child becoming a nurse does create warm fuzzies in me...  And she is experiencing her first practicum as I write.  Her family is now caring for their aged "bizabuela"...Doraliz's great grandma who has heart failure and normally lives alone in the small pueblo, south of Zihuatanejo  without the medical care she needs.  So adding to a house that is only partially built, home to 3 children, 2 adults, chickens, birds and a dog and various members of the colonia when they have problems, as well as functioning as the local tienda (store) and storage area for building materials for the squatters homes; Doraliz's family have opened their home to care for a person they love.  Meanwhile, another grandma who lives in Zihuatanejo is also struggling with end stage untreated diabetes...and will join their family when she needs the assistance.  I find myself wondering how many of us in Canada in our large, luxurious homes that sit empty most of the day would ever consider bringing their aged relatives in to live...

 
And in my neighborhood, our local pedicurist, beautician, a 20 something young Mexican woman who grew up in Texas in a community of illegal migrants and returned to her husbands hometown here in Mexico a few years ago, is 6 weeks away from delivering her 3rd child.  This is not a happy story.   Her young, uneducated and abusive husband left her for a teenage girl, has dodged paying child support to her 2 other children by claiming he was unemployed; and has attempted to assault her on numerous occasions.  But when I ask Maria how she is doing; she tells me that because her own mother was not a responsible parent, she is even more committed to trying to provide the best life and  home she can for her soon to be 3  young children.  In Mexico, children are valued and are part of every occasion.  Children grow up in sight of their parents and grandparents most of the day.  So not only will Maria do her best, but the home where she works will also be a refuge for her on a daily basis; both before and after she delivers this baby. 





So with these cares in my mind and heart, are we having fun yet?  Yes....it is Sailfest; the opportunity for local gringos, sailboaters and tourists to flex their donation muscles and support worthy causes in the school community.  Por Los Nino's, an umbrella charity that builds and supports classrooms, food programs and scholarship programs like Nino's Adelante is the annual beneficiary of this fun, well-organized event.  Tonight, my favorite musicians take the stage for a huge benefit concert...and we are going!




Cori is adjusting once again to his Mexican life....  As always, one of our first stops is to get his hair cut as sand and poodle curls make for a messy experience daily.  Hoping to spread our tourist pesos around, we tried out the newest business downtown, a pet spa/boarding facility that promises vacation delights for pets left behind (don't tell Cori), Cori endured yet another too short cut and went from being perceived as big and strong to being revealed as the skinny, almost frail looking poodle he is.


But that doesn't stop him from having fun in the best way he can, ball on Playa Madera...it's a huge treat to be back in the warm ocean and running on the sand with the kids of Mexico to play with. 

Within the walls of Casa Ceiba the days are relaxed.  Return renters lounge in the sun, warming their aged bones and remarking on how beautiful it all is.  Our staff are preparing for the annual general meeting of our condominium.  This year we will become a home owners association; and we will operate the building to the best of our ability.  Personally, our mental and emotional investment in this community has diminished as we find ourselves wondering where the future will take us.  But nevertheless, I am in the final stage of immigration and will soon join Gene as being a "permanent resident" of Mexico.   Who knows...maybe another Mexican community has our name on it?  Just like our move to Denman Island...with an open heart and an open mind...anything is possible!

And meanwhile, the newest member of our family just keeps getting cuter and bigger than ever - le extranamos mucho Wyatt...your Mexican friends and family are waiting to meet you!  A place where family means everything.